This classic climb sparked off a hive of climbing activity on the peak in the late fifties and sixties. It has since proved consistently popular. The route starts from the lowest rock band and is well worth climbing in its entirely. Many parties start from the tea-cave ledge on the second band, but this misses out three fine pitches.

Clifton Crest

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Follow the Circular Route until past the large granite boulder (Encore Boulder) below the path on the Clifton side of the peak. Follow a faint path up the slopes towards the lowest continuous rock band. The climb begins up a very pronounced dark recess  40m left of an obvious cave with trees.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Lionshead Sandstone
Sector Descent:
The Clifton Sector

Route Description

P1 - 12m, 3: Climb the recess to the overhang. Traverse right below the overhang until able to move up to a ledge.  Walk about 6m right to the first short break on brown rock (cairn).

P2 - 35m, 4b: Climb the undercut break to the ledge above. Walk to the rightmost edge of the ledge, climb onto a block and, using the right-hand crack, climb to stance. Cross the ledge to a recess about 4m high.

P3 - 10m, 4c: Climb the recess, break right and continue to the tea cave traverse. Walk 10m to the left.

P4 - 23m, 5a: This pitch consists of a recessed brown face with an obvious corner crack. Climb the brown recessed face using the crack in the right corner. Climb past a piton and up a short square bottomless recess to the ledge above. Cross the vegetated band heading to the open book where the gendarme meets the flat face on its left.

P5 - 36m, 5a: Climb the open book to the ledge below the overhang. Rail right to a small stance, then climb a short face to the top of the gendarme. Belay from a ledge with trees.

P6 - 20m, 4b: On the right hand side of the face directly about the gendarme is a recess. Climb the recess until able to climb on top of a tall block on a ledge. Step off the block and pull up to the top of the face. Cross a grassy ledge and scramble up a short wall to another grassy ledge. Directly ahead is a crack in a v-groove.

P7 - 20m, 4b: Climb the v-groove to a grassy ledge, scramble up a short rock band to a larger ledge with some loose rock on it.

P8 - 40m: Climb short faces interupted by grassy ledges to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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Clifton Crest
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