A real classic

Big Groove

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FFA:
Ed February
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
South Wall
Sector Descent:
Big Groove Sector

Route Description

Start at a large, prominent recess about 100 meters to the left of the Descent Gully route on the back of the Tafelberg. The route follows this recess to the top.

1.   30m (5c): Ascend a short chimney on the left of the groove-line to a ledge below a thin layback crack next to a smooth, sloping slab. Climb the finger layback crack for three meters, then traverse delicately to the right and slightly down. Swing into a sloping recess and continue up strenuously through the overhangs above, bearing right. Climb the face above to a stance on the right.

2.   20m (4b): Move up the recess above, traversing to the left at the ceiling to a small exposed stance.

3.   30m (6b): Move up to the overhang and using an underhand layback, traverse out to the left and around the overhang. Continue up to a small stance below the next overhang. Layback around to the left and over the next overhang and climb the steep recess above to the overhangs, then traverse out to the right to a stance.

4.   20m (4a): Climb straight up to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

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3+

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4b

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4a

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4c
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5a
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5b

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5c

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6a

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6a+

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6b

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6b+

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6c+

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8c

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5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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