Just before the tea cave the face steps out to form an overhang. The juncture with the flat face to its left is an open book corner crack. The route shares a start with Cosmonaut.
P1 - 30m, 4c: Climb to crack for 5m until able to pull up onto a narrow ledge. Traverse left until able to move up easily past the overhang. Pull up onto the face and continue to the vegetated band above (abseil point). Cross the vegetated band aiming for the recess to the right of the gendarme.
P2 - 35m, 5a: The pitch follows the inset crack formed where the gendarme meets the main face to the right. Climb up for 6m to a small overhang. Move right and continue up the brown face to the obvious corner crack. Climb the crack, which becomes overhanging, for about 8m until another overhang is reached. Either pull straight through this or bypass it on the right. Continue up a flat grey face to reach the grassy, treed ledge at the top of the gendarme. Although many parties abseil from here, this missed out more superb climbing on the remaining pitches.
P3 - 2m, 5a: To the right of the abseil anchors is an open book. Climb this for 3m to a recess, continue up this for another 3m to a small overhang. Pass the overhang to the right and up onto a small ledge. Layback up a thin crack with an awkward start to the ledge above. Walk straight up to to the next face with a slightly overhanging corner crack on its right.
P4 - 40m, 4c: Climb the overhanging fault breaking left onto the ledge above. Continue up a corner, cross a larger ledge and climb another short overhanging face. More of the same leads to the top.
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