One of the finest routes in the 'berg.

Blood on the Rocks

5b
5b

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A2

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

From the Sentinel Car Park walk toward the chain ladders for c45min. As soon as you round the North Spur you will look up at the gully between the Gendarme (left Skyline) and Sentinel. Leave the path at an appropriate point to ascend the grass slope and then the gully.

At the start of the gully traverse right and ascend grassy slopes to the black streaks just left of a loose recess.

Descent

Either

  • Descend MCM via rappel
  • Descend the Standard route
Crag Descent:
Sentinel West Face
Sector Descent:

Route Description

Note: The traditional routes in The Drakensberg are still graded using the "old" system. As with routes in The Alps this is regarded as conveying more information precisely because it is more vague than modern technical rock grades. The grade chart on the Grade Tab gives an indication of the technical equivalence.

Start: Up a shallow groove, 4 metres right of a loose corner on the left side of the ledge.

1. 15m (F1/2): Climb the shallow groove to the crack above you. Pull through  and step left into the grassy corner. Climb up to some loose blocks then left onto the face, then up to the grassy ledge.

2. 35m (F2, A2): Move right for 5m along the ledge, then climb up trending right through a small cubbyhole to gain the black corner system with roofs above. Aid up on good gear, with the occasional peg, following the crack system to the left going underneath the small roofs. Once through the roofs, follow the crack straight up and climb through a recess to a small ledge on the left side of a large flake. Step down and traverse right to the other side of the flake to reach an excellent belay from the block above you (piton in the crack on the left).

3. 40m (F2, A1): Climb the right-hand side of the flake, using a few aid moves around the grassy sections. From the top of the flake, go straight up, passing a small overhanging block. From the top of the block, step left and climb around the corner (7 m), and set up a semi-hanging belay from the cracks around you.

Note: A piton will be seen hanging out of the crack above - don't use it!

4. 27m (F2, A 1): Climb the corner above, past some loose flakes under the roof. Get under this roof and aid out to your left and then up the recess just past the roof. Gain the small cubbyhole, and then climb up to a smaller one above. From the cubbyhole, walk to your right, and belay under an overhang.

5. 30m: Step down to the grassy ledge and scramble along it till you get to a blackened corner/recess. This is where this route joins the Thatcher Route, which is followed to the broad ledge higher up, then continues along the Standard Route to the top.

6. 28m (E3): Climb the centre of the steep black face above, taking a meandering line in order to avoid first a bulge and then a loose block.

7. 40m (C/D): Climb an easy groove in a corner to a ledge. Traverse left and surmount some large blocks in order to gain the massive grass ledge below the summit cliffs.

Follow the Standard Route from to the top

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

4a

12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

17

6a

18

6a+

19

6b

20

6b+

21

6c

22

6c+

23

7a

24

7a+

25

7b

26

7b+

27

7c

28

7c+

29

8a

30

8a+

31

8b

32

8b+

33

8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

5.5

5.6

5.7

5.8

5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

No items found.

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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