Africa Nose

Africa Nose

5c
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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Just left of the Cuckoo's Nest roof (with a drip and a small cave at the base) is a brown recess. (The Africa Face pitch is 10m to the left.)

Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge

Route Description

  1. 6m '13': Climb up diagonally right to a stance under the overhang. Walk 5m to the left.
  2. 5m '9': Climb the recess to the top of the large block.
  3. 12m '12': From the left of the stance ascend a short fault (4m). After an awkward start
    ascend the face to a stance behind a pinnacle.
  4. 5m '14': Climb the slit to the ledge.
  5. Move to the left to where the ledge broadens out and traverse about 10-12m left. The next pitch starts to the left of the Africa Cleft chimney and just to the right of the Africa Bust Up nose between Africa Crag and Africa Nose.
  6. 10m '13': Climb up the face. Move left and pull up in a recess. Traverse left onto a small stance on the tip of the nose.
  7. 17m '14': An awkward traverse left around the corner leads to a dassie crawl. Continue traversing left to a small grassy stance.
  8. 22m '16': Climb the overhanging crack for 6m. Then traverse left for about 15m and up to a stance on the edge of the nose
  9. Two or three pitches of easy climbing lead to the top

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

E1

E2

E3

F1

F2

F3

G1

G2

G3

H1

3-

9

3

10

3+

11

4b

13

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12

4c
14
5a
15
5b

16

5c

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6a+

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6c

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8b

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8b+

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8c+

35

8c

34

5.4

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5.9

5.10a

5.10b

5.10c

5.10d

5.11a

5.11b

5.11c

5.11d

5.12a

5.12b

5.12c

5.12d

5.13a

5.13b

5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
Highball
Warning - Highball boulder

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