Direct, sustained climbing with a heart stopping, pivoting block in an unexpected place.

Africa Gullet

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FA:
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1961
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Start: One meter right of the Lily Pond on Africa Ledge.

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge
Sector Descent:
Africa Crag Nose

Route Description

1.    11m '16': Ascend the crack on the right of a smooth face. First move into the left-hand side of the cave and then up the crack using a chockstone. Continue up to a stance.

2.    26m '14': Climb 6m up the crack directly above to the ceiling. Traverse to the left for 10m to a corner on the skyline. Move up to a cubby-hole, continue Sm to a climber's friend bush.

Traverse below this and up to Upper Africa Ledge. Walk left along the ledge towards the Africa Crag nose.

3.    30m 16: Start up the crack (as for Africa Crag), then continue up to a small stance below a jammed block. The original pitch went up the bulging face just to the right of the Africa Crag chimney/crack (17). Only purists will do this.

4.  12m '16': Move to the right around the block, climb up to the triangular overhang, tra¬¨‚â†verse to the left and mantelshelf on to a small stance. Use the slanting handrail above to swing onto the corner on the left where you can stand. A meter above there is another handrail. Use this to traverse left to a slanting foot-ramp, move up to another handrail. Continue left to a good stance around the corner (shared with Africa Crag).

5.    18m '17': Start 3m to the left below a bulging face. Climb 5m and mantelshelf on to a narrow stance. Climb up a meter or two and then balance left to the recess. Climb the 7m recess to a good stance. It is also possible to start the pitch in the recess - proba¬¨‚â†bly less scary!

There is a final pitch. This is normally avoided by using the last pitch of Africa Crag.

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Alternate Description

Climb pitch 1 of Africa Wall to get to Upper Africa Ledge. Walk to the far left hand side to the Africa Crag Nose. thereby you skip p1 and 2 of the original route.

Combine pitch 3 and 4 to make a long 45m pitch of excellent quality.

You are now on the same big stance on Africa Crag. Follow this route's pitch 6 onwards. You do however then miss out on the crux.

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Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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