Africa Eyelash

Africa Eyelash

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

On the left-hand end of Africa Ledge, there is the large roof of One Flew over the Cuckoos Nest just left of this is a bottomless V-slot crack.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge

Route Description

  1. 8m '19': Strenuous arm-pulling lead into the crack. Move up for a meter to a narrow handrail on the right-hand edge. Swing out on this rail and then pull up until small grips higher are reached. Continue until a resting place. Balance up for 2m, continue up to the stance
  2. 12m '12': To the right of the scruffy recess is a smooth face. Start in the centre of this and after two meters traverse into a recessed corner. Ascend the corner for 2m. Take
    the higher of the two handrails to the right and traverse around the corner to a good stance another 3m higher.
  3. 22m '14': A vertical face with two prominent faults is directly above. Use the right-hand fault, continue up on bushy rock to a broad ledge.
  4. 6m '14': Walk left under the Africa Crag Nose to a recessed corner. Move up to a good stance. A long easy traverse left enables one to gain access to the left-hand side of Africa Crag Nose.
  5. 11m '15': Immediately below the left-hand edge of the nose there is a V-shaped crack that must be ascended. Move into a one man stance in a semi-bottomless cave.
  6. 20m '15': The pitch may be divided into two sections: a smooth face and a bottomless, right-angled recessed corner containing a narrow slit. Climb up the face, then layback up the narrow slit to a small stance
  7. 21m '14': Traverse to the right and move diagonally up to a narrow ledge situated about halfway along the nose. Ascend a corner and then traverse again on good grips to the right to an excellent stance near the tip of the nose.
  8. From here the original route continued up the edge of the nose to avoid Africa Crag. The
    most pleasant option though is to join Africa Crag.

Alternate Description

The first pitch of Africa Nose can be climbed instead of pitch one. This brings the grade down to '15'

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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E1

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F1

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G1

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3+

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5.13c

5.13d

5.14a

5.14b

5.14c

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Interactive Icons

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
Highball
Warning - Highball boulder

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