A classic line with a mind bending roof. The '19' face pitch is up there with the best.

Africa Bust Up

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1971
FFA:
Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

From the far left-hand end of Africa Ledge just past a cave some distance past Africa Face. Africa Sideburn climbs up the left-hand side of the gendarme. We commence at the gendarme.

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Descent

Crag Descent:
Africa Ledge
Sector Descent:
Bust Up Sector

Route Description

1, 30m '14': Climb the crack at the right-hand side of the gendarme. Continue up to a ledge with a large block on it.

2.   20m '14': Climb a short and shallow recess on a white face. Traverse three meters to the right to a niche below an overhang. Pull through the overhang and traverse to the left before climbing the white face to a dassie ledge.

3.     8m '17': Climb the 8m crack in the recess to a dassie ledge.

4.     30m '19': Step 1m right into the recess. Move slightly right at the top of this (peg), and continue up the face on layaway holds until one can finally rail right around the corner to an airy stance.

5.     25m'17': Climb up to the roof following the scoop. At the huge flake engage mind in reverse and rail out until able to sit on the lip. (It feels safer but more unaesthetic to crawl into the flake). Continue up to the ledge above.

6.     25m '14': There is a grotty crack just on the left. Climb this and the faces above to a grassy ledge.

Scramble to the top.

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Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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